Rear Brake Pads

Hello - my first post - apologies if in wrong place. I am looking to replace the pads in the rear brake. I don't have a manual, but looking at the job it appears I have to remove the wheel spindle. Is this the case? Or is there an easier way?
Haven't done the front pads, but it would just be a case of removing the two bolts holding the caliper, but on the rear the caliper is part of the carrier. Any info would be brilliant.
Thanks and atb

You don't need to remove the wheel, its easy.

Pull out the R clip in the pin that goes through the holes in the pads at the rear. Now you need a punch of some kind, I used a needle file with the end snapped of square. Drift the pin out with a punch and a hammer, pushing it towards the sprocket and chain side of the wheel. Before you pull out the pads push them against the disc so the piston goes back into the caliper, giving a little twist helps. This is important or it will be difficult to get your new pads in. Now you can pull the pads out backwards, pliers are useful here.

Hope this helps any questions just ask. I have brembo's btw.

Welcome Spike!
Yes you do have to remove the rear wheel so that you can push the piston back into the caliper.
It's not a bad job; loosen off the spindle nut while the bike is on the deck
Put bike on centre stand
Sit behind wheel with your legs straddled so that you can support it when you pull out the spindle. When you remove the spindle roll the wheel forwards so that you can unhook the chain; put some newspaper on the deck so you don't get grit on the chain!
Make a note of where the spacers go; the best thing to do here is when you remove the spindle slide the spacers onto it in the correct order.
On reassembly smear some grease around where the spacers fit in the wheel; this will help to hold them in when you offer it all back up. Give the spindle a good smear of engine oil before refitting!
You'll need a G-clamp to squeeze the piston back into the caliper; make sure you take the lid off the fluid reservoir before you do this.
While you've got it apart check the caliper slider pins; these corrode over time and it's a good idea to re-grease these before re-assembling as it can cause uneven pad wear if these are sticking.
Any problems give us a shout!

Edit: Homebrew beat me to it! Yes you can do it that way however I would recommend taking the wheel out to check the sliders on the carrier as if they are seized you will very quickly wreck your new pads.

OK - thanks for the replies. After my post I checked some old threads and found one which was relevent, which said spindle had to be removed. I did them this afternoon. I wouldn't mind I have had the wheel out for a couple of weeks while I repainted it, then fitted a new tyre to it. It was only after my test ride I came to the conclusion that the rear brake seemed to be acting like a throttle - ie bike seemed to go faster when applying back brake! So I thought I would stick a new set of pads in and clean the disc. Haven't ridden it yet so I've no idea whether it has helped.
Thanks again for replies and I'll post here when I have been out & let you know whether its any better.
Ooo while I'm on, could I ask what method folk use to line up the back wheel. This is the first chain driven bike I've had since 1990.
ATB

spike240 wrote:Ooo while I'm on, could I ask what method folk use to line up the back wheel. This is the first chain driven bike I've had since 1990.
ATB

Have a look either side of the swingarm; there's a little cutout where you can see markings on the chain adjusters. Line these up the same either side & you should be spot on. Little tip; make sure you push on the back wheel so that the adjusters don't shift when you nip up the spindle bolt!