CB500 Club forum
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James_chivers
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    BRAKE PADS + BRAKE PLATE THINGY

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    Post by GINGER Fri 02 Dec 2011, 12:04 pm

    Hi Guys & Girls...... The tire fitter recomended to fit new bake pads ... so I would like to do both, well my mecahinc is, ( or is it possible to do your self with very basic knowedge and a few tools ) and would it be good to replace the metal plate that the pads brake onto. Sorry if I used the wrong terminology ..... I so do love my cb 500 snarly ..... ta Ginger x
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    Post by James_chivers Fri 02 Dec 2011, 6:14 pm

    It would depend on the tools you have. To be honest I haven't changed the pads or discs (aka metal plates) on by CB but have done on many cars. Firstly make sure the parts you have are servicable (good conditon and ready to use) and will fit.

    You would normally need a basic socket set to remove the caliper and would then have to remove a pin to get the pads themselves out. Bit of copper grease on the back aroud the parts that touch the caliper (to prevent issues like brake squeel). You would then need to wind the caliper piston back into the caliper a little to take account of the thicknes of the new pad compared to the old worn one. You may have to remove the brake fluid resevoir cap to allow the fluid to move back into it. Once this is done pop the new pads in place and replace any clips. You could then remove the disc normally held on with several bolts that require a star key or similar (like an allen key) and put on the new one (making sure it is facing the correct way (for roation; it should have arrows on it). If you wanted to be super throrough you could check the disc run out using a special tool that you can buy for about £40 (this in effect is to make sure the disc is not at all warped).

    Put the caliper back on and hey presto. I am sure that on the CB they recommend replacing the securing bolts when replacing the caliper.

    This answer is just to give you an idea as like I say I haven't done the pads or disc on the CB yet. I am sure that soon enough someone will give you a great answer specific to the CB.
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    Post by oldenuff Sat 03 Dec 2011, 9:44 am

    You need a pair of pliers and a lever of some sort. There is no need to remove the calipers. Remove the R-clip from the securing pin, pull out the pin ( it may need encouraging from the other side but use a block of wood to avoid mushrooming, take off the spring clip. Use a small lever to push the pads back against the calipers and pull them out. You will provavly need to push the caliper pistons right back in. Use the lever to do that but take care not to scratch anything. Put the new pads in place. they hook at the front so check that they are firmly in place. Spring clip, pin and R-clip and Bob's your uncle
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    Post by ashcroc Sat 03 Dec 2011, 1:30 pm

    If the disc isn't warped & it's still over 4mm thick there's no need to replace it. Unless your running the pads down to the metal backing, they should last through multiple changes.
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    Post by Guest Sat 03 Dec 2011, 9:01 pm

    I've never known a bike or car shop replace my calliper bolts and I never have either (although you should always follow the manufacturers guidelines not some twit on a forum). But you must use a torque wrench to tighten all the bolts.

    sent from my samsung using TwinPot Tapper
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    Post by GINGER Sun 04 Dec 2011, 10:03 am

    Thanks you for this is sourcing the parts .. as aye type !



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    Post by eternally_troubled Thu 08 Dec 2011, 12:31 pm

    I believe that they suggest you use 'new' caliper bolts because, from new, they come with a dry locking compound painted on.

    This was done so that Mr. Honda can ensure that, if the correct procedure is followed, locking compound will always be used (as it is already there on the bolts).

    So, if you are reusing your old ones (as I and many other people do) it is quite important that you do three things:

    1. Remove any built up crap or loctite residue from the bolts (i.e. clean them!)

    2. During reassembly, apply some locking compound (e.g. the blue loctite) to the threads to ensure they cannot come undone.

    3. Use a torque wrench to check they are tightened to the correct torque.

    Anyway, don't let this put you off, especially as you don't have to remove the caliper just to change the pads!
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    Post by badseeds Mon 19 Dec 2011, 7:36 pm

    At this time of year, get the calipers off, clean 'em up with brake-cleaner and a toothbrush smear some of this round the pistons/seals:

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Castrol-Red-Rubber-Grease-Brake-Caliper-Rebuilds-100-g-/400091723528

    You'll be glad you did come Spring and the Winter road salt hasn't mullered your brakes.
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    Post by Guest Mon 19 Dec 2011, 8:08 pm

    badseeds wrote:At this time of year, get the calipers off, clean 'em up with brake-cleaner and a toothbrush smear some of this round the pistons/seals:

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Castrol-Red-Rubber-Grease-Brake-Caliper-Rebuilds-100-g-/400091723528

    You'll be glad you did come Spring and the Winter road salt hasn't mullered your brakes.



    Seconded, and make sure you pull the sliders off and coat the pins with copper slip; these can seize up causing uneven pad wear and they are a royal PITA to separate when they do seize.


    Last edited by teamster1975 on Mon 19 Dec 2011, 8:57 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Dodgy spelling :P)
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    Post by badseeds Mon 19 Dec 2011, 8:14 pm

    teamster1975 wrote:make sure you pull the sliders off and coat the pins with copper slip; these can seize up causing uneven pad wear and they are a royal PITA to separate when they do seize.

    Oh yes, very good advice.

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