Charging / battery

I been working on Improving the electrical supply on the CB500 for a time. As some may know I more light than a Christmas tree!

1st step a bigger capacity battery a YTZ14s is an exact fit and about a third larger in capacity

2nd step a better rec/reg I have gone for a tried and tested VFR800 unit mounted externally to the footrest hanger kept much cooler and independent of the bikes loom Input direct from the windings output to the battery direct

3rd step early vfr800 alternator windings these are a direct fit if slightly deeper but all is well

I have a digital voltmeter fitted in the taco and wired to the instrument power feed not perfect as there is a volt drop from the battery but good enough

Each step has given a slight improvement in charging under load at revs and recovery from sitting at idle ( at traffic light etc)

costs well the battery is 1 1/2 times the cost of standard

rec/reg £90 Pattern part

Honda VFR800 FI '98-01' Alternator Windings G52 was £77 now £100 Ebay £3 gasket Pattern

good work! Nice to know the VFR alternator fits.

If you don't want to spend the money, but want more reliability, then just moving your existing regulator/rectifier to a place where it gets a good air-flow will help keep it working correctly for longer (generally cooler electronics last longer, in my, and lots of other peoples, experience).

Yes indeed   the location f Cb500 and many other Honda rec/reg unit leaves much to be desired

The footrest hanger option ins not pretty but sure keep it cooler
I seen numerous VFR750 and VFR800 with computer 12v fans on the rec/reg

Hi was it hard to fix the vfr reg?

No drilled two holes and bolted it to the footrest hanger  
The three wires from the Windings connected direct to the three yellow wires from the REC/REG
green to a really good earth red to the battery positive and black to a switched power

Cheers Dave was thinking of changing mine but didn't want to change everything would you say the reg makes that much difference? I've found my bikes battery doesn't last very long in this cold weather but if I charge it then it's really good for a few days. I've had a multimeter on and with the bike ruining at 2500rpm it's getting 14.2 volts

If you battery goes down in use  you are either drawing more power than the charging system will provide  or part of the system is in poor condition
If the battery goes flat out of use you either have an alarm "SPIT"  or the battery is on the way out

the weak spot in the charging system is the rec/reg and the wiring to it 

Replace it with a better unit  mount it in the clear in cool air  and the bike will charge a bit better
I now tend the solder the 3 phase wiring and the pulse current is massive
I tent to connect earth  and power out to as close to  the battery as I can manage

Replace the battery with a better on and you will have more reserve I use a YTZ14S
Avoid the yellow peril that is mobatt from my experience there are hyped crap

Replace the Windings with a "bigger" set and you will again get more power

Cheers I had my eyes on a motobatt so they aren't as good as made out the one I was looking at was 10.5 and 160cca I did look for ytz14s battery but they never seem clear on the specs. 
Cheers Dave lots to think and look at

Sorry to bump an old but interesting topic but is this the right stator and is the connecter a direct fit into the cb5's loom?

yes. I think that is a sutiable one.  I would not connect it via the loom  connect directly to a larger rec reg I soldered the connections  
 I also run the main positve and neqgitive to the battery bypassing the horid round the houses in too thin wire in the Honda loom. The whole point of this mod is more electrical power and to get it hou need to bypass the just good enough wireing in the loom my power connections are in 60amp cable and soldered / crimped with pro tools

You may find 7 or 8 wire regulaters 3yellow is ac 3 phase in 2red power out 2 green earth and a black if presest switched power a "sence" connection for voltage control  my rec/reg is later VFR800

Jameshambleton wrote:Sorry to bump an old but interesting topic but is this the right stator and is the connecter a direct fit into the cb5's loom?

Yes and no,
This will fit and give you a great supply of power to the battery, even at low revs. I fitted one as I run heated grips, heated jacket and lights. I use a 14Ah battery and a standard regulator/ rectifier. You will need longer bolts to mount it due to the extra thickness.
The connectors are the same.
In the two years since I fitted it I have had no problems at all.

The standard one is the G53 model. Which will bolt straight in.

davebike500 wrote:yes. I think that is a suitable one.  I would not connect it via the loom  connect directly to a larger rec reg I soldered the connections   
 I also run the main positive and negative to the battery bypassing the horrid round the houses in too thin wire in the Honda loom. The whole point of this mod is more electrical power and to get it you need to bypass the just good enough wiring in the loom my power connections are in 60 amp cable and soldered / crimped with pro tools 

You may find 7 or 8 wire regulators 3yellow is ac 3 phase in 2red power out 2 green earth and a black if presest switched power a "sense" connection for voltage control  my rec/reg is later VFR800

So you run a separate amount of cable along the frame to the rec/reg and then from there you wire it directly to the battery? Any chance of some possible pics?

ANDYC wrote:Yes and no,
This will fit and give you a great supply of power to the battery, even at low revs. I fitted one as I run heated grips, heated jacket and lights. I use a 14Ah battery and a standard regulator/ rectifier. You will need longer bolts to mount it due to the extra thickness.
The connectors are the same.
In the two years since I fitted it I have had no problems at all.

The standard one is the G53 model. Which will bolt straight in.

So yours connected directly to the loom?

Here is the mounting this a  5 wire rec/reg



Wiring from windings are soldered the input the rec/reg and then heat shrink covered and located under the side panel
The green neg wire goes to the loom and the frame under the side panel where rec/reg was
The red power out is run in 60Amp cable the the battery side of the Starter relay where the 300Amp wire from the battery connects to

Dave, do you ride it around like that?

It done over 40K like that  rec reg is waterproof and stays much cooler out in the brease

ANDYC wrote:

Jameshambleton wrote:Sorry to bump an old but interesting topic but is this the right stator and is the connecter a direct fit into the cb5's loom?

Yes and no,
This will fit and give you a great supply of power to the battery, even at low revs. I fitted one as I run heated grips, heated jacket and lights. I use a 14Ah battery and a standard regulator/ rectifier. You will need longer bolts to mount it due to the extra thickness.
The connectors are the same.
In the two years since I fitted it I have had no problems at all.

The standard one is the G53 model. Which will bolt straight in.

Yes, mine is fitted as the original one was.

Hi all

I know the last reply was a while ago but how much of an improvement did the larger generator make for example headlight on at idle? I have already fitted an upgrade shindengen mosfet unit(FH020AA) with direct wiring from alternator to reg and reg to Battery. and was wondering whether any worthwhile further improvement was possible.

for info I took the opportunity to make the Mods when my regulator failed.

Regards

Mike

I never noticed my old stock system having any issues with the headlight, though at idle my battery is getting getting more than standard. At 2K I'm getting 14.5 or 13.5 volts across the terminals.

I must add though that I noticed a massive difference when I've been riding with my heated grips on. On 100% before, my battery was discharging and the eco/battery saving light came on. Since fitting the bigger stator I've not had the problem since. The reg/rec did get very hot after fitting it though. I changed my reg/rec to a rr690 and I've had no problems since apart from relocating it. I'll post up a post in here in the next few days.

This is how I replaced my reg/rec.
 
I bought a rr690 from electrix world and I was shocked at the size of the thing. I mean look at it. 


It's massive! Anyway back to it. 
I went to my existing reg/rec and unplugged the wiring coming from the stator into the part of the loom it's maybe 70mm long before going into the reg/rec. In my mind this is yet another awfully weak place in the just about good enough loom.



Here is when the fun starts. I could not find anywhere on the bike to place this it's just so big so I finally opted for the right side seat panel that surprisingly has decent air flow as there is a decent size gap coming from the coolant bottle is. Anyway back to the fun stuff. The cable that you can see that has the blue electrical tape on the end of it is coming from the G52 stator. 
I managed to get the reg/rec in place by bending the bracket that the solenoid mounts on to get the angle in to fit it. 

After bending the solenoid bracket back and remounting that I then managed to wedge the reg/rec in place. 





I then ran the wires coming from the reg/rec to the battery, along the underside of the tank and connected them to the battery. 

James

Thanks for the Post.

do you remember the bolt size for the larger generator(G52) there was a new old stock item going cheap on ebay and i bought it.

regards

Mike

Navymike wrote:James

Thanks for the Post.

do you remember the bolt size for the larger generator(G52) there was a new old stock item going cheap on ebay and i bought it.

regards

Mike

I completely bodged mine. 

I had to remove the rubber gaskety thing that comes with the wires coming off the stator, as the ones that come the the G52 are too big. I also had to cut the connector off the original stator cable to get the original rubbers out to fit them onto the new wires.

 
Mine were really stubborn and didn't want to move so I got some spare engine oil and lubricated the wires and got as much as possible in the rubber thing.  This image shows you what rubber thing I'm talking about.


I then did the same on the g52 wires, now these are wider than the normal size stator wires so once again oil was used to lubricate them, these were a real pain to get through, I ended up pushing them through the hole just enough and then I pulled the rest of the cable through using a pair of plyers. Please ensure that you keep the wires in the same order through the hole or else it'll become a little problematic. Anyway as you can see on this image below that I messed up the wires a little. But the original rubber thingys fit flush with stator cover. 


Now onto the important part. The original stator bolts are too proud/tall and they catch on the flywheel it caught on the flywheel and actually stalled my engine! I ordered x10 6m30 bolts (I could only get 4 and 10 packs as there is 5 holes) for bolting the stator into the stator/engine cover place.  The head on these was once again too proud. 
In the end and as the very last resort I got the standard stator case bolts, sawed off the flange with a hacksaw and fitted them, these are about the width of my fingernail too tall . I only found this out after I took the stator cover off again at a later date. The marks on the bolts look a lot worse than they actually are. 

Basically remove the stator cover, remove the stator.

Cut off the standard connector that goes into the loom.

Slide the rubber gasket off the original stator wires. Do this step again for the G52. 

Get the original rubber gasket and slide this onto the g52 wires. 

Get 4 of the engine/stator cover bolts and cut the flange off them. 

With these use them to fix the stator to the engine/stator cover. 

With the rest of the engine bolts replace them with the 6m30 you will need 10 of these if I remember correctly.