Head Bearings

Available for Euro 94. Looks like this..

Perhaps this would work just as well...I have this job on my 'to do' list at some point.

Or closer to Melitos's tool, one of these..

I have no info on when, or if, the head bearings have been done on my bike.

There does not appear to be any notchyness in the steering or any back and forth movement, even under braking

sullivj wrote:Or closer to Melitos's tool, one of these..

that is the same type as the mechanics use to remove the wheel bearings and swing arm bearings, as they expand outwards to lodge against the bearing lip once through the dreaded spacers Honda put in.

To be honest, I don't see why they are needed. the bearings fit against a lip, so cannot be pushed in further than necessary

Nor is there on mine, but for me, the bike's a 'keeper', so worth doing at some point.

I also have a steering wobble at 40mph, why MAY be due to the head bearing. I'd like to change them, just so I can rule them out.

I don't have steering wobble, but my bike does tend to wander a bit on straight roads

sullivj wrote:Or closer to Melitos's tool, one of these..

Hi

I have doubt that this tool would work. The change in diameter needs to be steeper in order for the tool to bite on the lip. That's why I had fairly short split cuts on my home-made tool.

BR,
Antti

Good to know Antti - thanks. Some people have said the lip is almost non existent. Presume yours was at least visible? 1mm?

Hi

In my case there was maybe 1mm lip but it was not accessible with straight drift. The inner diameter enlarges quite a lot and in a steep angle to facilitate the bearing race.
 
Here's an illustration of the problem


BR,
Antti

Thanks for the diagram. Makes me think that the Sealey tool I linked to above, might just get on to the lip.

sullivj wrote:Nor is there on mine, but for me, the bike's a 'keeper', so worth doing at some point.

I also have a steering wobble at 40mph, why MAY be due to the head bearing. I'd like to change them, just so I can rule them out.

If you run a bt45 front tyre you will get the wobble towards the end of its life. Mine has just on the edge of starting to wobble but I should be back on the s20's before it becomes an issue.

It's not the tyres. I changed those thinking it might be, and it still did it.

sullivj wrote:Thanks for the diagram. Makes me think that the Sealey tool I linked to above, might just get on to the lip.

Hi

That might work. Possibly some grinding is needed to 'sharpen the claws' for a better grip to bearing race.

BR,
Antti

I did my head race bearings yesterday.... what a p---k of a job.... a welder is a good idea to get out races.... i got bottom race out in few minutes....top race 2hrs... i didnt fine dremel any use....my advice is to get correct bearing removal tool...or friend with welder to spot weld a bar across races to knock them out

Crash- Elmit wrote:Honda do a special tool for the bearings/races No's 07953-MJ10000 and 079463710500.

Have not yet had a chance to search the web for them

some links and pics appear to be missing on page 2 of the thread so my apologies if its been done already.


Available special order from David Silvers £120 for the pair.

Here's what they look like,

Honda Tools

One looks easy to fabricate, the other looks challenging...

It isnt easy to make... i made couple of bits out of steel pipe and it didnt work....... i got both out with a aldi pry bar that got on to head race edge then put  piece of steel  down from top through frame tube that hit pry bar the hit steel with hammer... best done with two pair of hands...saying that i did it on my own

Melitos wrote:Hi

In my case there was maybe 1mm lip but it was not accessible with straight drift. The inner diameter enlarges quite a lot and in a steep angle to facilitate the bearing race.
 
Here's an illustration of the problem


BR,
Antti

I think the key is this part of 07953-MJ10000



I'm not speaking from experience but logically from it's shape; that it is either passed through the bearing or slipped down the tube and positioned on top of the bearing.  Thereby overcoming the problem as shown in the diagram. The central hole is to locate the rod, and wouldn't be needed if a suitable wide pipe was used.

The original complete tool is listed at £48.53 (inc VAT) at David Silver

How much would it cost to make one plus a length of pipe?