Powerbronze Viper headlights

Hi all,

Does anybody else here have a Powerbronze Viper fairing with the twin headlights on their CB5?

If so, do you also find the headlight very dim on unlit streets and are there any suggestions on how to improve it?

I was thinking of putting higher power bulbs in (by the way does anybody know what bulbs it takes?) but I have heard that this can cause battery charging issues.

Any help/suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,

wishnik

I've got one but yet to get around to fitting it, mainly as it's only carrying (from memory) 30 or 35 watt H7 or H4 bulbs.

With stronger bulbs I'm not so worried about battery charging since the standard electrics on these isn't too stressed & the alternator should be capable of supporting more.

The extra draw through the wiring & fuse could potentially cause problems though so I'm going to run the nearside through a couple of relays (1 for dip & 1 for main beam) to be on the safe side & run 55w HID style bulbs.

ashcroc wrote:I've got one but yet to get around to fitting it, mainly as it's only carrying (from memory) 30 or 35 watt H7 or H4 bulbs.

With stronger bulbs I'm not so worried about battery charging since the standard electrics on these isn't too stressed & the alternator should be capable of supporting more.

The extra draw through the wiring & fuse could potentially cause problems though so I'm going to run the nearside through a couple of relays (1 for dip & 1 for main beam) to be on the safe side & run 55w HID style bulbs.

Thanks ashcroc - I am a numpty when it comes to electrics on a bike so what sort of relays would I need? Also do you know if the bulbs are H4 or H7? I want to get some new ones before delving into the unknown in case I mess the existing ones up!

Just had a look & it's actually currently running 35/35w hs1 bulbs which have a slightly wider top tab to the H4. Thankfully a H4 bulb will fit a HS1 socket (but not the other way around).

You'll need a couple of standard 12v automotive 4 pin (or 5 pin without 87a connected) relays & there's a good how-to here that someone previously linked to but for this application you'll be wanting to make a couple of changes. Port 85 will connect to the + feed of the dip or main beam & port 30 goes directly to the other bulbs dip or main connection instead of a distribution bloc. I've done a quick wiring diagram to help explain.

ashcroc wrote:Just had a look & it's actually currently running 35/35w hs1 bulbs which have a slightly wider top tab to the H4. Thankfully a H4 bulb will fit a HS1 socket (but not the other way around).

You'll need a couple of standard 12v automotive 4 pin (or 5 pin without 87a connected) relays & there's a good how-to here that someone previously linked to but for this application you'll be wanting to make a couple of changes. Port 85 will connect to the + feed of the dip or main beam & port 30 goes directly to the other bulbs dip or main connection instead of a distribution bloc. I've done a quick wiring diagram to help explain.

Hi ashcroc,

Thanks so much for the very detailed, annotated explanation!

I will look into doing this as soon as I get a weekend free (still moving and unpacking boxes after a year long extension project that is thankfully nearly complete).

Cheers,

wishnik

I used to have a PowerBronze fairing but removed it as I prefer naked bikes. The fairing is in the garage loft gathering dust...!

However, when the fairing was on, I changed the bulbs to 2x 100% Brighter White Xenon bulbs. Originally, the bulbs in the fairing were 1x dipped and Main beam while the other was just a dipped beam. I changed so both had a main beam to increase light on my country roads... Whenever I put the Mainbeam 'on' it kept blowing fuses so I had to increase to high ampage.

Fuse box located under the triangular panel just below seat and above exhaust. You'll need an allen key to undo the bolts to remove panel.

With 2x Xenon bulbs, Gizmo was complaining of Bright Light



No issues with battery charging though...!



G-T

Hi all,

Today I investigated the issue with my twin headlights being very dim. I had purchased relays, relay wiring looms and some new Zenon headlights in preparation.

Having got it apart and standing their scratching my head thinking what to do next I noticed that the existing bulbs were actually 55/60 watt H4 bulbs and had been wired up so that both lights work dipped and main beam. Aha I thought to myself - perhaps if I just change the bulbs and see what happens ... so I did ... slightly better but still "yellow" not bright white like I would expect.

Now a mechanic mate of mine who I had visited last weekend suggested I put in a separate earth line from the common to the bike frame as a bad earth can cause yellow bulb syndrome so I took his advice and wired up the common to a convenient anchor point on the frame ... lo an behold ... brighter than a very bright thing white light is now spewing from my twin headlights so now I can ride on the very dark roads around here without fear of driving through hedges!

Anybody got any idea what I can use two relays and looms for?

Cheers.

wishnik (aka Steve)

Good find, just shows that earthing is important!

Anyway, do you have heated grips?

If you do, you could wire your heated grips through the relay, so they switch off automatically when the turn off the ignition. I have been meaning to do this on my bike for ages.

You could always buy a louder horn and wire that up using the other relay :)

eternally_troubled wrote:Good find, just shows that earthing is important!

Anyway, do you have heated grips?

If you do, you could wire your heated grips through the relay, so they switch off automatically when the turn off the ignition. I have been meaning to do this on my bike for ages.

You could always buy a louder horn and wire that up using the other relay

Thanks ET - both good suggestions! I am looking at possibly getting some heated grips as my heated gloves warm the outside of my hands well but the insides tend to remain rather chilly - have had them before but was not keen on the swollen feel to the grips once on.

Louder horn would be good too though I was thinking more along the lines of a Fuel end can (Xmas pressies to myself) to make London drivers more aware of my existence instead of using the horn- some people are so blind!

Cheers,

wishnik

A decent can is a must for London traffic but the looks you get from cagers when I let my stebel nautilus rip is priceless. It comes with a relay though so you'd still have a spare one. I've also left the stock one on & fitted the stebel with a switch so I can run standard if I wish (very handy when going through tunnels & for MOT's if you don't want to deafen the tester).

I've hooked a cigarette lighter socket through a relay too (for sat nav etc) but that could easily be the same one as the heated grips with the right guage wire & fuse.

ashcroc wrote:A decent can is a must for London traffic but the looks you get from cagers when I let my stebel nautilus rip is priceless. It comes with a relay though so you'd still have a spare one. I've also left the stock one on & fitted the stebel with a switch so I can run standard if I wish (very handy when going through tunnels & for MOT's if you don't want to deafen the tester).

I've hooked a cigarette lighter socket through a relay too (for sat nav etc) but that could easily be the same one as the heated grips with the right guage wire & fuse.

I have heard those are VERY loud horns!

I have a Scorpion can on my viffer which I used to ride with the baffle out but recently I put it back in as it started to get on my own nerves ... it still makes a pretty good rumble and people do hear me coming - I think the Fuel one for the CB will be just the ticket.

What about using the relays for some switched fog lights which I could use when plunged into darkness when the street lights run out ... that might work if I could think of a suitable mounting point for the lights on the fairing.

I'm sure the relays will come in handy at some point!