Stainless engine mounting bolts and alloy spacers

I'm looking into making some stainless steel engine mounting bolts complete with alloy spacers.
As mine are based on the faired 'S' model I don't have the bolts or spacer sizes for the naked models.
Would one of you learned gentlemen be so good as to supply these sizes please. Thanks in advance guys.

i can help you with the sizes for two of the bolts for the naked model as i have recently added crash bars to mine and needed longer bolts which i ordered from england (these bolts in case somebody might need engine mounting bolts in the future).

FRONT: M10X260
UPPER REAR: M10X165

LOWER REAR: M10X270
(according to the diagram but this one i haven't measured myself)

When I get home I can tell you the front engine spacer sizes as I've just had 2 NOS spacers come.

I would tell you but my spacers are all crunchy and knackered, so not good examples!

Good work on getting this done.

27.58mm long 
22mm diameter 
10.5mm through hole

Jameshambleton wrote:27.58mm long 
22mm diameter 
10.5mm through hole

Thanks James, hopefully I can make a set over the weekend and get a photo up.

I have ordered some alloy bar rather than turn down a much larger diameter bar needlessly, and some shorter bolts for the rear upper mounting rather than shorten much longer ones.
Here's a photo of what the longer bolts look like.(260 and 270)
The thread is M10 x 1.5 rather than the 1.25 pitch that comes as standard on these, the reason is to keep costs down.
The nuts are self locking.

Those look nice. Be sure to apply ample copper slip / anti sieze when fitting as stainless & allow have a habit of chemically bonding.

could someone measure the length of the lower rear spacer please, i had to cut mine in half to get the engine out, then discovered that it was unavailable from lings. many thanks

Stainless engine mounting bolts with alloy spacers, if anyone wants a set I can make them up to order.
£30 posted

are  these for the naked or the 's' Andy?

Llewelyn1965 wrote:are  these for the naked or the 's' Andy?

These are for the naked model, I can make them for the 'S' too.
They would be £25 posted as they don't have the spacers on the front mounting.

I'm looking into making spacers from stainless steel as well as alloy, if there's enough interest.

Hi Andy, I'll have a set of those for the naked model. Do you have paypal? pm me your details and I'll send a payment.

Hi Andy, 

I had to drill out the front engine mount bolt on my CB500s when I repainted the engine. The bolt wasn't standard as it had some extra length to accommodate crash bars. I can't find a replacement of the same size anywhere and I was looking to have one made. 


Dims are:

M10,
282mm long,
40mm thread on each side.

Please let me know if this is something you'd be interested in.

Many Thanks,
Engi.

Engi57 wrote:Hi Andy, 

I had to drill out the front engine mount bolt on my CB500s when I repainted the engine. The bolt wasn't standard as it had some extra length to accommodate crash bars. I can't find a replacement of the same size anywhere and I was looking to have one made. 


Dims are:

M10,
282mm long,
40mm thread on each side.

Please let me know if this is something you'd be interested in.

Many Thanks,
Engi.

Hi,

I can make one for you, but why have both ends threaded?

Recieved my lower rear engine bolt in stainless off Andy over the weekend.Quality spot on,better than the original.This will prevent future seizures of this bolt which,if you have removed your old one you will no theyre virtually impossible to get out without some serious hammer work.
Mine was like a mushroom when id finished removing it.
I would replace it as a matter of course with a stainless one if you remove your engine.

Hi Andy, both ends were threaded on the bold provided with the crash bars. It's easier to make but I'd have no problems with a headed bolt instead . I'll PM you.

Just an update for the guys that have ordered these from me.
I'm waiting for new carbide tool bits hoping that I'll be able to get a better finish on the parts.
They will be all ready to be posted out to on Saturday at the latest.

Engi57 wrote:Hi Andy, both ends were threaded on the bold provided with the crash bars. It's easier to make but I'd have no problems with a headed bolt instead . I'll PM you.

I think the renntec (& probably other engine bars with a cross piece) have a nut both ends to make removing them easier if needed for maintenance.

The OE Honda ones not only have a fixed head one end but surprisingly you're expected to reuse the original nut.

ashcroc wrote:
The OE Honda ones not only have a fixed head one end but surprisingly you're expected to reuse the original nut.

There can't be many out there where the original nut still exists once it has been removed from the bike...

Llewelyn1965 wrote:Hi Andy, I'll have a set of those for the naked model. Do you have paypal? pm me your details and I'll send a payment.

Posted 1st class today

Just to clarify things about fitting these bolts.
They are made from A2-70 (18/8 or 304) stainless steel.
All stainless steel bolts need lubrication on assembly, I use copperslip but oil will work fine.
This is important as stainless steel is very prone to 'galling' when dry under pressure.
These M10 bolts should be torqued to 35NM, this is less than the standard setting (45Nm) but that has not been an issue for me for about 15 years so I feel confident enough to recommend it.
Coating the inside of the crankcase holes that the bolts pass through with copperslip will prevent the white deposits caused by the galvanic reaction forming. This is caused by any two different metals coming into contact, stainless steel has only a slight reaction so there is no chance of it welding itself in like the originals do.
If anyone has any questions just ask and I'm happy to help