Instrument Lights

According to Haynes there are two sizes of instrument lights, a 1.7W and a 3.4W. Does anyone know which goes where? And are they all type 501 cap-less?

I could, of course, remove the instrument cluster to find out but I would like to check I have the correct bulbs in the spares box before doing so, then I only have to remove the cluster once to replace the blown bulb.

Chris

As you can see here:

http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_motorcycle_parts_selection_pfk.php?block_01=13MY5WEA&block_02=F__0200&block_03=1612

There are actually 3 (!) different bulbs, but essentially they are either 3W or 1.7W and as you can see from the picture they are all the capless type.

I just tried to have a look at the halfords website to see if they have them: unfortuantly it is so sh1t that I couldn't tell. I *know* that my local halfords probably has these, but I suspect you might have to ask at the parts counter.

Thanks for the link - it solved my problem of finding the bulb.

I finally bought one from GSF for 60p, a lot less than the Honda price of about £1.20. Halfords list one under the number 657338-0 but they want £2.49!

For the record the bulbs are as follows, using the Honda drawing linked in Eternally Troubled post above.

Ref.1 The five are used in the four warning lights at the bottom of the cluster plus the side stand warning light. These are all T6.5 wedge base, also known as #24 or T6_1/2. They don't seem to be available other than from Japanese M/C suppliers so there is unlikely to be a cheap source of supply.

Ref.2 The one 3.4W or 3W bulb is used in the speedometer illumination. This is a T10 wedge base. The 3W version is known as a type 504, also HBU504 or RMM504. Not to be confused with the type 501 which is a 5W bulb used in many cars and will almost certainly produce too much heat in the Honda speedometer.

Ref.3 The two 1.7W bulbs are used in the tacho illumination. They have the same T10 base as Ref.2 above but this power level only seems to be available from Japanese M/C suppliers so again no really cheap sources.

All these bulbs now seem to be available as LED equivalents although at considerably greater cost. However, as LED prices are falling all the time it might be worthwhile in a year or so in order to fit a bulb that lasts the life of the bike. After the time and trouble it took to remove and replace the instrument cluster just to change a bulb I am very tempted.

Chris

ps, led do fit and dont over heat and look good in blue, but green would look like a jet fighter

I changed all mine instrument bulbs to white LEDs last weekend. Yes, it is a ball-ache to do - I have a crash frame round my headlight and clocks which means even more work.

Though I do have an odd issue that's developed since. The idiot light for the indicators only flashes when the right indicators are flashing. I took it apart again and wiggled all the connections, but nuffink.

I wish I'd gone for green LEDs now - I could play at being Maverick out of Top Gun!

LED lights have certainly come down in price since my comment of nearly a year ago.

One small word of warning.  There is a large number of T10-501 LED bulbs around.  These are intended as car sidelight or flasher repeater lights and will have the equivalent light output of a 5 or 6W filament bulb.  This shape bulb is used for the speedometer light.  Using this LED bulb will not do any harm in terms of current or heat but you might find it a bit too bright, particularly if you are riding on unlit roads.

With regard to badseeds query on the idiot light.  This bulb is connected across the left and right indicator bulbs so that when the right indicators are flashing the bulb will be earthed via the two left hand bulbs and vice versa.  This system is fine with a filament bulb as you can reduce its voltage and it just glows dimmer.  LED bulbs work differently in that they need a minimum voltage to work and if they don't get that voltage you don't get a dim output - you get nothing.  Most LED bulbs will be designed to operate on a full 12V. 

In this case it seems that due to manufacturing tolerances in the indicator bulbs or perhaps a bad connection somewhere in the RH circuit (pale blue wire on the Haynes circuits) the idiot light is being starved of voltage.  Sorry if this explanation appears complicated but I am trying to avoid being too technical.  Please ask further questions if you need to.

Chris

goulton wrote:.......Sorry if this explanation appears complicated but I am trying to avoid being too technical.......

I truly am ignorant when it comes to electrics. Your explanation is perfect. Thanks mate

Can someone tell me how to remove the clocks to change the bulbs?

Thank you

Hi

You might need to remove the headlight connecting bolts and push the light away to get access. All the screws and nuts to remove clocks are on the underside. If you want to remove the cable connector you need to open the headlight to find the connector inside lamp.




BR,
Antti

I changed my bulbs to LED today, all three bulbs are a T10 base, I searched on Ebay and found these:





This is one of the 1.7W versions, I also got a 3W for the speedo, same base, but a longer bulb. They came in a range of colours as well as white. I chose green.

Fitting them is easy enough, drop the headlight out of the way then remove the three screws holding the back cover to the instruments. The bulbs are in black rubber holders and swap straight over.

The finished result:



I will try to get a better pic later, when it is dark.

I've not changed the idiot lights yet, they will just need white bulbs as the colour is in the plastic cover and I wanted to check the bulbs fitted first.

I like the green. Looking forward to a 'night' picture.

Not a bad upgrade for less than 3 quid.

Very smart UKT.

I might have to invest. Thanks for sharing.

These are the bulbs I used, obviously you have a three week wait for them to arrive:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lot-T10-3014-LED-24-SMD-1-7W-501-W5W-Silicone-Car-Interior-Side-Light-Width-Bulb/311885250954?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=610717701128&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T10-5050-3W-DC-12V-9-LED-4000K-Ultra-Bright-Car-Auto-Side-Tail-Light-Bulbs-Lamp/262853469548?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=561852512400&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

I think the blue would look good, I might order some and leave them in the tool box until the next time I take the instrument pod apart.

Thanks for the links. How many of each did you need? They're running low on stock it seems, so might need to wait for them to restock.

You need two of the 1.7w and one 3w. I'm sure there are other sellers who have them in stock, I just linked to those because there are still in my Ebay buying list.

Just ordered two sets of blue and two sets of green, but the more I think about the more I'm convinced my bulbs are the small bayonet type

I'm getting my wires crossed. the bayonet bulbs I bought some time ago were for my old 125 twin, and they are 6v 1.7w and 6v 3w. The  500 is indeed the push fit ones

Crash- Elmit wrote:I'm getting my wires crossed. the bayonet bulbs I bought some time ago were for my old 125 twin, and they are 6v 1.7w and 6v 3w. The  500 is indeed the push fit ones

and the cb5 ones are 12v

Had the same issue - couldn't be arsed to go hunting for LED replacements.

A full set of OE individually packaged bulbs off of my authorized Honda dealer was 10£ - and I got a nice printout of the instrument cluster with positions etc to go with the bulbs. I'm lucky to live near a multiple times 'Dealer of the year':


And no, you don't need to remove the headlight. A suitable socket + extension bar and ratchet will do the job.

Yes, the LED lights look cool, yes the CB500 uses the capless push-fit bulbs.

There is one practical point to note: LEDs don't produce as much heat as the incandescent bulbs they replace - so you might suffer a small condensation problem on the inside of your clocks which doesn't tend to happen if you install incandescents.

Don't let me put you off putting LEDs in your clocks - it's just best to know what you might be letting yourself in for! (more likely to be a problem with all-weather bikes.....)