longer side stand

Well done Roger!

Does it lose any of it's structural integrity by heating it so much?

Good work. Did he heat treat after to realign the molecules or just leave as is?

he assured me that it would be just as strong as before and was best to leave to cool naturally as things like quenching would weaken it if there was carbon in it or something.

you could only land a few hits on it before the cherry red died down and wouldn't budge at all, had to repeat the heating about 4 times to move.

it was only slightly out but seemed more as the length accentuated it.

Without knowing what grade steel they used it's probably safer not quenching. It'll be weaker without but your not running the risk of it going catastrofic & a stand doesn't need to be that springy.

I believe he said its forged steel - but as you say no idea what grade. seems better construction than the original.

I'm going to measure the lean angle on both stands and see how I feel about the new one and if all is well get it shot and coated.

so I fitted it on and reduces the lean angle from just below 15deg to 13deg - so reduces it by 2 deg.

only issue I take with it is that the foot angle doesn't match the ground which as we've already taken a bend out wouldn't be a massive issue to resolve.



other than that it does hit the main stand in its resting position so if I keep it on will need to most definitely remove it.

The centre stand is something I never thought about as I removed mine long ago.
I had to, due to running a 150/70 rear tyre which would foul the centrestand.
I just fit it when I need it, a 2 minute job as I don't need to fit the springs.

how do you find the larger rear tyre?

It really improves the handling, it feels much more stable. Being able to use radials has made a world of difference.
You have a much wider choice and they seem to last much longer. Michelin Pilot Road 3's have lasted 12k now and still have a good bit of life left in them. Could be down to a relatively light bike without the overkill on the power stakes.
I run an NC29 rear wheel which is much lighter and wider at 4.5".
The front end is CBR600FR which is 3.5", it may not be lighter but runs a twin discs set-up.
These are 41mm adjustable for preload and compression damping.
You do however have to offset the gearbox sprocket by 5mm, you can put a spacer behind it(which served me well for a few years).
Or you can fit a gearbox (only the countershaft is different) from a CBF500 which is designed to accept a 160 tyre.

ah, so you couldn't run wider than the stock 120 on the rear (I believe?) without changing the rim?

I think the race boys are running 140/70's on the standard rears.

you can safely use a tyre that is 10mm wider than what is standard on a standard rim anything over that is considered too dangerous due to the way that the tyre seats against the wheel rim

Radial tyres require a wider wheel rim than crossply tyres.
It's due to the different type of construction.

Would you bend it at the foot, or close to the top pivot to get the foot on the floor. If it's at the pivot, I guess you could further improve the angle?

I'll get it heated at the same point as before and purposely put a bend in the other axis so it matches the floor.

so another day and a bit more refinement...





In the end we just heated and tweaked the foot, we also put that slight bend in the nobble for deploying as it happened to almost be right below the rider foot peg so was hard to get a purchase on it so with a slight kink backwards is much easier.

Had a ride around with it and find that at the new angle mounting and dismounting the bike is allot more comfortable than it was.

Just need to get it painted now!

(I also moved the thread to the Upgrades section)

Shame about the nobble - would play havoc with my OCD!

once it's coated you'd never notice unless you're looking for it - oddly my ocd remains unaffected