Portal![[solved]Broken front engine case mount Empty](https://2img.net/i/empty.gif)
Hi all can any one tell me why the front engine mount break i have seen a few with this problem is the engine bolt been over tightend or to loose and the vibration break the mount, Cheers
+2
Beresford
jonny10
6 posters
[solved]Broken front engine case mount
ar1- Barry Sheene
- Posts : 82
jonny10- the 900
Posts : 311
Do you mean the lugs on the frame cross member which the engine bolt screws into & through? Hard to see anway in which the engine bolt can be overtightened; too loose? - yes. Would engine vibes through a loose bolt break it? Guessing but I suppose its possible through metal fatigue maybe. Perhaps others will have a view....
ar1- Barry Sheene
- Posts : 82
I refer to the cast ally lugs on the engine itself they appear to have the top half of the casting sheared off?
eternally_troubled- the 900
Posts : 4199
Location : 'ere be fens. (near Cambridge)
I think the easiest way to clear this up would be a picture: I can't take one of my bike now as I'm at work (without the bike). If someone wants to take a picture of the front mounting bolt area and post it it might help - you could then see what a 'not broken' one looks like.
ar1- Barry Sheene
- Posts : 82
Hi i do not have a photo as i have seen the damage on bikes for sale on ebay , i am concerned that this is a common fault, like i have said the aluminium engine casting is broken and you can clearly see the engine bolt in the broke casting, thanks, ar1
Guest- Guest
ar1 wrote:Hi i do not have a photo as i have seen the damage on bikes for sale on ebay , i am concerned that this is a common fault, like i have said the aluminium engine casting is broken and you can clearly see the engine bolt in the broke casting, thanks, ar1
Right so this is not your bike then, you're in the market?
It is common for the front engine bolt to get seized and I would imagine some less patient home mechanics smash the casting on the engine in their attempts to remove it.
It is not a weak point as such, just very prone to galvanic corrosion between the mild steel bolt & aluminium block, hence we smother it in copper slip when replacing!
Beresford- the 900
- Posts : 1862
Location : not that far from Kirkistown
Ahh. I get it now. They're all like that Sir. The centre section of the mounting bolt is visible on the CB500. The alloy case isn't broken ( usually )ar1 wrote:Hi i do not have a photo as i have seen the damage on bikes for sale on ebay , i am concerned that this is a common fault, like i have said the aluminium engine casting is broken and you can clearly see the engine bolt in the broke casting, thanks, ar1
ar1- Barry Sheene
- Posts : 82
Nearly sir, yes you can normally see the bolt clearly, but the damage is to the actual casting the bolt runs through, it becomes completly detached from the engine, any ideas, thank you for your help
Guest- Guest
All I can suggest is keep an eye out for one without the damage. We rarely hear of it on here so the current batch on ebay must be heaps!
ar1- Barry Sheene
- Posts : 82
Thanks all you have quelled my fears and have bought a cb500r 1994 with 8000 miles on her, she looks like new and i paid £1500 what do you guys think, cheers
Guest- Guest
ar1 wrote:Thanks all you have quelled my fears and have bought a cb500r 1994 with 8000 miles on her, she looks like new and i paid £1500 what do you guys think, cheers
Not bad at all if it is a genuine 8000 miles and not round the clock, well done! Get a photo up when you can, looking forward to seeing it!
sullivj- the 900
- Posts : 2246
Location : Gatwick
Sounds good. Looking forward to seeing it.
eternally_troubled- the 900
Posts : 4199
Location : 'ere be fens. (near Cambridge)
teamster1975 wrote:
Not bad at all if it is a genuine 8000 miles and not round the clock, well done! Get a photo up when you can, looking forward to seeing it! :D
Doesn't really matter if it has done 108,000 miles, as long as it has been looked after... anyway, it probably hasn't (especially if you have a folder of receipts to prove it).
Well done on getting a CB500!
ar1- Barry Sheene
- Posts : 82
Thanks guys, yes the bike has done a genuine 8000 I have the papers and all relevant docs, but you are right, if its a Honda look after 100,000, plus is O.K. one thing though the rear brake is crap, are they all like this , everything else is perfect I do not know why Honda would make it so poor, yours A
Guest- Guest
ar1 wrote:Thanks guys, yes the bike has done a genuine 8000 I have the papers and all relevant docs, but you are right, if its a Honda look after 100,000, plus is O.K. one thing though the rear brake is crap, are they all like this , everything else is perfect I do not know why Honda would make it so poor, yours A
Well done then, that's a great find!
The shoes may need adjusting on the rear (or need replacing!), there may also be surface rust on the inside of the drum. It would also be worth changing the brake fluid all round if it's been sat for a while.
I've no experience with drums myself as I've got the later one with disc rears but other guys here have the know how
ar1- Barry Sheene
- Posts : 82
Good advice the rear drum maybe oxidized ,i will have a look at some point but there is no wear on the shoes as the wear indicator is at max, one more thing maybe you could help with, the suspension seems really firm even with the settings at the lowest position, are they all like this, i am about 11 stone, thanks again you are a real help
Guest- Guest
If you've got the shocks on minimum pre-load there's not a great deal you can do apart from replacing them (we usually hear of the shocks going squidgy, not being too firm!)
You should check the fork oil level as well, it's 150mm from the top with spring removed and leg fully compressed on the R model. In fact I would change the fork oil as a matter of course.
You should check the fork oil level as well, it's 150mm from the top with spring removed and leg fully compressed on the R model. In fact I would change the fork oil as a matter of course.
ashcroc- the 900
Posts : 1502
Location : London
I used to have a drum model & found it only really any good for hill starts. I found engine braking quite satisfactory for slowing down the back wheel & it becomes 2nd nature relatively quickly.ar1 wrote:Thanks guys, yes the bike has done a genuine 8000 I have the papers and all relevant docs, but you are right, if its a Honda look after 100,000, plus is O.K. one thing though the rear brake is crap, are they all like this , everything else is perfect I do not know why Honda would make it so poor, yours A
There's a list here of the bits required to convert to disc rear if you decide it's needed.
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