[solved]Broken front engine case mount

by ar1 Mon 17 Nov 2014, 7:08 pm

Hi all can any one tell me why the front engine mount break i have seen a few with this problem is the engine bolt been over tightend or to loose and the vibration break the mount, Cheers

by jonny10 Tue 18 Nov 2014, 11:54 pm

Do you mean the lugs on the frame cross member which the engine bolt screws into & through? Hard to see anway in which the engine bolt can be overtightened; too loose? - yes. Would engine vibes through a loose bolt break it? Guessing but I suppose its possible through metal fatigue maybe. Perhaps others will have a view....

by ar1 Wed 19 Nov 2014, 11:54 am

I refer to the cast ally lugs on the engine itself they appear to have the top half of the casting sheared off?

by **eternally_troubled** Wed 19 Nov 2014, 12:42 pm

I think the easiest way to clear this up would be a picture: I can't take one of my bike now as I'm at work (without the bike). If someone wants to take a picture of the front mounting bolt area and post it it might help - you could then see what a 'not broken' one looks like.

by ar1 Wed 19 Nov 2014, 7:28 pm

Hi i do not have a photo as i have seen the damage on bikes for sale on ebay , i am concerned that this is a common fault, like i have said the aluminium engine casting is broken and you can clearly see the engine bolt in the broke casting, thanks, ar1

by Guest Wed 19 Nov 2014, 7:58 pm

ar1 wrote:Hi i do not have a photo as i have seen the damage on bikes for sale on ebay , i am concerned that this is a common fault, like i have said the aluminium engine casting is broken and you can clearly see the engine bolt in the broke casting, thanks, ar1

Right so this is not your bike then, you're in the market?

It is common for the front engine bolt to get seized and I would imagine some less patient home mechanics smash the casting on the engine in their attempts to remove it.
It is not a weak point as such, just very prone to galvanic corrosion between the mild steel bolt & aluminium block, hence we smother it in copper slip when replacing!

by Beresford Thu 20 Nov 2014, 10:05 am

ar1 wrote:Hi i do not have a photo as i have seen the damage on bikes for sale on ebay , i am concerned that this is a common fault, like i have said the aluminium engine casting is broken and you can clearly see the engine bolt in the broke casting, thanks, ar1

Ahh. I get it now. They're all like that Sir. The centre section of the mounting bolt is visible on the CB500. The alloy case isn't broken ( usually )

by ar1 Thu 20 Nov 2014, 6:45 pm

Nearly sir, yes you can normally see the bolt clearly, but the damage is to the actual casting the bolt runs through, it becomes completly detached from the engine, any ideas, thank you for your help

by Guest Thu 20 Nov 2014, 6:52 pm

All I can suggest is keep an eye out for one without the damage. We rarely hear of it on here so the current batch on ebay must be heaps!

by ar1 Thu 20 Nov 2014, 6:56 pm

Thanks all you have quelled my fears and have bought a cb500r 1994 with 8000 miles on her, she looks like new and i paid £1500 what do you guys think, cheers

by Guest Thu 20 Nov 2014, 7:09 pm

ar1 wrote:Thanks all you have quelled my fears and have bought a cb500r 1994 with 8000 miles on her, she looks like new and i paid £1500 what do you guys think, cheers

Not bad at all if it is a genuine 8000 miles and not round the clock, well done! Get a photo up when you can, looking forward to seeing it! Very Happy

by sullivj Thu 20 Nov 2014, 7:14 pm

Sounds good. Looking forward to seeing it.

by **eternally_troubled** Fri 21 Nov 2014, 1:10 pm

teamster1975 wrote:
Not bad at all if it is a genuine 8000 miles and not round the clock, well done! Get a photo up when you can, looking forward to seeing it! :D

Doesn't really matter if it has done 108,000 miles, as long as it has been looked after... anyway, it probably hasn't (especially if you have a folder of receipts to prove it).

Well done on getting a CB500!

by ar1 Fri 21 Nov 2014, 2:57 pm

Thanks guys, yes the bike has done a genuine 8000 I have the papers and all relevant docs, but you are right, if its a Honda look after 100,000, plus is O.K. one thing though the rear brake is crap, are they all like this , everything else is perfect I do not know why Honda would make it so poor, yours A

by Guest Fri 21 Nov 2014, 4:17 pm

ar1 wrote:Thanks guys, yes the bike has done a genuine 8000 I have the papers and all relevant docs, but you are right, if its a Honda look after 100,000, plus is O.K. one thing though the rear brake is crap, are they all like this , everything else is perfect I do not know why Honda would make it so poor, yours A

Well done then, that's a great find! Very Happy

The shoes may need adjusting on the rear (or need replacing!), there may also be surface rust on the inside of the drum. It would also be worth changing the brake fluid all round if it's been sat for a while.
I've no experience with drums myself as I've got the later one with disc rears but other guys here have the know how Smile

by ar1 Fri 21 Nov 2014, 5:49 pm

Good advice the rear drum maybe oxidized ,i will have a look at some point but there is no wear on the shoes as the wear indicator is at max, one more thing maybe you could help with, the suspension seems really firm even with the settings at the lowest position, are they all like this, i am about 11 stone, thanks again you are a real help

by Guest Fri 21 Nov 2014, 6:02 pm

If you've got the shocks on minimum pre-load there's not a great deal you can do apart from replacing them (we usually hear of the shocks going squidgy, not being too firm!)
You should check the fork oil level as well, it's 150mm from the top with spring removed and leg fully compressed on the R model. In fact I would change the fork oil as a matter of course.

by ashcroc Sat 22 Nov 2014, 11:16 am

ar1 wrote:Thanks guys, yes the bike has done a genuine 8000 I have the papers and all relevant docs, but you are right, if its a Honda look after 100,000, plus is O.K. one thing though the rear brake is crap, are they all like this , everything else is perfect I do not know why Honda would make it so poor, yours A

I used to have a drum model & found it only really any good for hill starts. I found engine braking quite satisfactory for slowing down the back wheel & it becomes 2nd nature relatively quickly.

There's a list here of the bits required to convert to disc rear if you decide it's needed.

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[solved]Broken front engine case mount

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