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Flat spot

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Post by Foggie15 Fri 20 May 2011, 10:03 pm

Ok, i'm new here so hello to everyone. I have recently bought a 1999 sx which i've converted back to naked, (much nicer) I'm hoping someone can shed some light on a savage flat spot i've just noticed, it's at it's worst when i try to roll on in top gear from around 4000rpm, it gets to about 5500-6000 and doesn't want to go any further unless i change down and cane it through the 5000-7000 area in a lower gear. Any thoughts? Neutral
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Post by Globetrotter Fri 20 May 2011, 10:35 pm

Mine is the same - but there is a lurvely sweet spot 7000 upwards Very Happy

Its not a tourquey bike, and the small 'spirited' engine needs a bit of work getting there. Up to 5500ish in 6th is about 60mph ish... 50-80 in 6th gear is a bit slowwwww and needs a bit of 4th gear drop down to pick up the pace in a more spirited manner...

Welcome to the club

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Post by Guest Sat 21 May 2011, 9:32 am

Welcome to the club Foggie!
As GT saya this is normal behaviour (assuming it isn't restricted!!).
You have to work the gears to get decent acceleration but once you've got the knack you can get some decent welly out of it! You could fit a K&N filter and a more free flowing pipe, this did make a difference to mine and it sounds much better! Very Happy
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Post by Foggie15 Sat 21 May 2011, 9:49 am

That was quick, thanks guys. I suppose i might be expecting a bit too much out of the old girl, i've recently been using my brothers Blade and my last bike was an R1, the last time i rode a CB was over ten years ago when i was an instructor and we used them for the DAS courses, fond memories of scraped pegs and 'what traffic?' style filtering is what made me buy one, but you reckon it's normal? ok, i'll bow to your superior knowledge, thanks again.
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Post by hayden Sat 21 May 2011, 10:44 am

Foggie15 wrote:flat spot i've just noticed, it's at it's worst when i try to roll on in top gear from around 4000rpm, it gets to about 5500-6000 and doesn't want to go any further unless i change down and cane it through the 5000-7000 area in a lower gear. Any thoughts? Neutral


Hi Foggie and welcome

I had the same flat spot ( although it would rev passed that, it just bogged down) and just assumed it was a charateristic of the bike but since a carb clean and sync, and valve clearences i dont have this anymore, its pulls smoothly right up to the redline in any gear...perhaps its worth checking if this has been done on yours?

Flat spots are not uncommon on any bike, normally got rid off or at least smoothed out by a service and or a bit of tinkering. Not being able to rev passed at a certain point sounds like something more fundemantal, but strange how you can get by it by dropping down a gear... scratch ..I`d be inclined to strip and clean the carbs and synchronise the throttle bodies and take it from there.. Wink
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Post by chromedome Sat 21 May 2011, 11:31 am

Hello Foggie, and welcome to the club.
I get this flat spot as well, but it's not a big issue. Like yourself dropping a gear is sufficient. It's a bit like the engine bogging down when you're trying to cruise at 30 MPH in top gear. I think it's down to the tall gearing on the CB making any flat spots more evident quite frankly.
Very willing/reliable/bulletproof engine otherwise.
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Post by hayden Sat 21 May 2011, 12:41 pm

[quote="chromedome"] It's a bit like the engine bogging down when you're trying to cruise at 30 MPH in top gear. quote]

I think 30mph in 6th gear equates to less than 3K revs with the gearing the Cb has, to be honest a patallel twin of only 500cc with what torque there is available doesnt stand a chance of picking up smoothly form those revs, that`s asking too much of the bike.
If my bike is anything to go by, if I want to cruise around economicaly but still be able to get out of a tight spot or overtake the revs have to be above 4-4.5K, I`am guessing maximum torque is around 7.5K revs and max power between 8-9K revs so they have to be worked reasonably hard to get a move on.

But, having to drop down a gear to get passed 5-5.5K revs is not right though, Honda just would not be able to sell a bike like that.
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Post by Foggie15 Sat 21 May 2011, 12:56 pm

Not sure if it's related but i've just noticed the vacuum pipe that's connected to my scottoiler, it wasn't connected so i'm thinking that air was getting in to the inlet manifold where it shouldn't have been, not sure if this was like it before or after i had the tank off the other day, oh well, let's go try it!
Oh yeah, gotta see if i can sort out my cam chain tensioner too, i have an annoying rattle from down there, maybe connected to the FS if it's affecting the timing??? , anyway, where's my socket set?!
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Post by hayden Sat 21 May 2011, 1:08 pm

An air leak would certainly have a big effect.

Good luck Foggie, I hope this is about to be a `eureka` moment!.. Laughing keep us posted..
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Post by Foggie15 Sat 21 May 2011, 4:37 pm

ok, no air leak, and stripped everything down to take out the cam chain adjuster, took it out, cleaned it, made sure it was moving freely, turned the engine forwards at the crank to take up any slack in the chain and put everything back, IT'S WORSE!!! one big coughing wheezing flat spot everywhere above 4500 revs!!! is it possible i could have slipped a tooth on the cam chain? i'k going out of my mind!!!
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Post by hayden Sat 21 May 2011, 5:42 pm

Its unlikely to have slipped a tooth foggie, unless the tensioner didnt fully engage and you rotated the engine clockwise

Only one way to be sure, whip the tank off, cam cover off, undo the small timing plug on the left hand crank case and the bigger centre plug on the alternator cover..turn the engine anticlockwise using a socket on the rotor bolt untill the `T` lines up with the marks in the inspection cover. you should have the `EX` on the exhaust and the `IN` on the inlet camshafts aligned with the top face of the cylinder head..if it is then no problem with timing.

Do it when the engines cold, if youve got that far you might as well check the valve clearences while your there?

good luck mate....don`t panic, it will be something simple.. Wink
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Post by Foggie15 Sat 21 May 2011, 9:46 pm

Ok, so i think i've sussed it, several hours, very dirty clothes, and a fed up wife later!!! I took everything apart and put it back together the way i guesssed it should go, at one stage i had both cams out and was getting a bit ahead of myself but i think i've managed to put it right. On the cam wheels they are two O symbols and an O on the wheel through the little hole in the crank case. so i lined them all up, put it back together and it works, the rattle has gone and the flat spot seems less pronounced, i'll have to test it properly though so i'm off to the off licence, purely for testing purposes obviously, will report back soon.
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Post by Guest Sat 21 May 2011, 10:10 pm

Enjoy some beers Foggie, you've earned them!!
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Post by Foggie15 Sat 21 May 2011, 10:25 pm

IT'S FIXED!!! Pulls like a little train now, and no sign of that annoying rattle from the cam chain, the flat spot has not completely disappeared, but it is sooooo much better than it was and from what you guys were saying, a small flat spot around 5500-6000 is completely normal. It may be my imagination but it does seem to be a fair bit pokier! and bizzarely, it's idling a lot lower now too, around 800rpm, oh well, anyway thanks a million for all the advice and guidance, you will definately be hearing more from me, top site guys.
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Post by hayden Sat 21 May 2011, 10:31 pm

well done foggie..

have one for me!..
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Post by Guest Sun 22 May 2011, 6:58 pm

Well done that man! Smile
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