New rider from manchester

Hello everyone.
My names Matt and ive just turned 30. And for my 30th I decided to join the two wheel'd club. The CBs I just bought isn't just my first big bike, its my first ever motorbike! Unless you count a mini moto.

Im a mechanic by trade and I have worked on many vehicles, from cars, HGV's road sweepers and now horticultural equipment. So im not afraid to get stuck in.

I bought the bike on my 30th birthday at the end of feb and I have just finished giving it a once over. Needless to say their is a list of things that id like to do before I ride it.







Its a 2001 with 26K on the clock. Came with the top box, non standard indicators, heated grips.
It also has a scottoil system but it seems to be missing parts.
It also came with some spares. An abundance of indicators, new front and rear pads and a chain and sprocket set.

All for £800!

I havnt even got my licence yet but it was too good to pass!

So for now I will clean and maintain it until im ready.

So this is the list I just came up with. This isn't even me going over it with a fine toothed comb. Just a quick inspection!

1. scott oil system innop
2. rear brake caliper seems to be sticking
3. rear brake switch innop
4. front side light innop
5. previous owner has added a manual rad fan switch (very badly) Unsure as to why yet.
6. Indicators are flashing too fast.

Needs a good service. It seems to take a while to get going from cold without stalling. I found a set of spark plugs under the seat and there were two different types (denso and ngk).

I really need to know:

1. whats the best engine oil to use and how much do I need for an oil change.
2. part number for oil filter
3. part number for air filter.
4. Fuel filter?
5. Spark plugs im guessing the NGK's are probably the best? CR8EH9

I have many many more questions as after all it is my first bike but I am a sensible driver / rider and I think I have chosen wisely.

Matt.

Hi mate! Nice looking bike. When's your test?

Hi there

Sounds like you have a good buy for £800!!

This site should help you identify part numbers :

http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_motorcycle_parts_block_selection_M30.php?mod_01=1578

you might need to register to access it - its free though.

I find useful also

http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/honda/cb_500_sy_s2/00-02/

Also worth looking at www.davidsilverspares.co.uk


Doesnt answer all your questions but it is a start

Cheers

Nice bike! Good luck with the test.

Add to your "to do" list checking the valve clearances. Do it before you change the oil, then when you do the oil change afterwards it'll wash out any dust or debris that got in while the valve cover was off the bike.

Welcome mate im in Manchester too might see you around 

Cheers lads. Thanks for the reply's.

Im just in the process of booking my theory test. hahaha. I did my CBT a few months back.

Glen, im in walkden / worsley in Salford if you know it.

Ill keep you all informed as to how I get on with it all.

Not sure if this will come in useful for settings / specifications / fluid quantities etc . . . . . . 

just found on another website.

http://db.tt/FDlZwfKj

http://db.tt/T43pCG8y

Hopefully these links dont go against any forum rules?

Oil filter: 15410-MCJ-505 is also used on many, many different Hondas. My ST1100, CBR1100 and VFR800 all use the same one. CBR600 does too.

Air filter: 17230-MY9-000 used on all flavours of CB500. Though I'd recommend a K&N - HA-5094.

l found that NGK Iridium plugs - CR8EHIX-9 coupled with a K&N increased my fuel range by a good 30 miles, though I appreciate that that may've been down to an old air filter. At least the K&N's are reuseable.

Scotoiler need to be connected to vacuum on carb. Is it? That's usually why they fail. Also, don't waste money on the 'proper' Scotoil - cheap chainsaw oil will suffice.

Your caliper will ned a strip and clean. Don't worry! It's not that difficult. Get Speed Bleeders NOT these, but like them. You'll need to research what ones you need, I've forgotten.

Engine oil........... Whatever you like. Change it every 4000 miles (please ignore Honda's advice of 8k) and tthe filter as well as they're cheap. I normally use Silkolene or Motul, whichever is on offer on ebay with a free oil filter, delivered for £25. Honestly, the cheap nasty stuff is fine AS LONG AS YOU INCREASE THE FREQUENCY AT WHICH YOU CHANGE IT!!!!!!!!! 

Front brake light switches seem to be a perrenial problem for me. Don't buy pattern ones. Luckily any Nissin master cylinder, like this has a suitable switch. I have a spare rear switch if you get stuck and can't find one.

Could the indicators be incorrectly fitted LEDs? I have a spare Genuine Honda indicator relay if you need to use it for testing purposes. Pilot/side light is probably blown, they all do that, Sir. Stick an LED in it.

I must say, for £800 you did very, very well there mate! 26,000 miles is literally sweet FA on one of these. Mine's done 100k and there's another member with 145k and counting. There's quite a few high-milers on here, bikes too!

One thing we ALL agree on - we're keeping these bike forever! Welcome to the best value motorbike currently available!

Forgot to mention. The earth wire for the radiator fan (see item 4) loves to rot and fall off. That cold possibly be why there's a manual switch. The fan doesn't normally kick-in til the temp gauge is around two-thirds of the way up. Unless you're sitting in heavy traffic you're unlikely to need it on. I despatched on an old NTV600 with a manual switch for many, many miles and it caused no issues whatosever.

Also, I see you've got stainless exhausts and a Fenda Extenda, both very worthwhile mods.

Hello!

Looks like you got a nice bike there.

To answer the one question that no-one has answered yet: There is no fuel filter.

There is (I guess) a fuel strainer in the tank to stop any HUGE bits of crap making their way into the carbs, but there is no other filter between the tank and the carbs.

If you were concerned you could fit an after-market fuel filter in the petrol hose that goes to the carbs - this is not normally necessary and most people probably don't bother.

CB500 is a great first bike - it was my first 'big' bike and I still have it five (I think) years later.

mcalvert39 wrote:Cheers lads. Thanks for the reply's.

Im just in the process of booking my theory test. hahaha. I did my CBT a few months back.

Glen, im in walkden / worsley in Salford if you know it.

Ill keep you all informed as to how I get on with it all.

Im in eccles 5 minutes from you lol. Welcome for a brew anytime.  Ive hooked up with a few Manchester riders too from Facebook (has its uses!) We're out to matlock this Saturday then squires a couple of weeks down the line. just pm me anytime 

Wow cheers! Only been on a couple of days and the response on this forum is great.

So,, yesterday afternoon I did some work.

Removed the front wings and headlight assembly & changed the blown blub)
removed side covers & fuel tank.
checked to see what horrors I might find. Luckily nothing much. Looks like this bike has been dry stored for most of lits life as their is no rust at all.

the indicators are all normal bulbs but I havnt checked what wattage they are. They maybe too low.

I never knew / realised I had a fender extender or that it was an option and the same goes for the exhaust! I just thought it was standard. It does sound awesome I must admit and again no rust on that either.

The coolant switch is bugging me a little. Is there a separate sender for the gauge and one for the fan switch. The only one I can see so far is a single pole one on the NS of the rad. I did also see a snapped wire just above the radiator.

Next job, get the plugs out and check the tappets. I cant imagine theirs much wear on them though.

mcalvert39 wrote:The coolant switch is bugging me a little. Is there a separate sender for the gauge and one for the fan switch. The only one I can see so far is a single pole one on the NS of the rad. I did also see a snapped wire just above the radiator.

Welcome mate! Yes there is a separate sender for the coolant temp that isn't part of the fan circuit; that wire you found floating around needs stripping off and attaching behind the top fan bolt to make the switch circuit. See my work of art below:

mcalvert39 wrote:
The coolant switch is bugging me a little. Is there a separate sender for the gauge and one for the fan switch. The only one I can see so far is a single pole one on the NS of the rad. I did also see a snapped wire just above the radiator.

Next job, get the plugs out and check the tappets. I cant imagine theirs much wear on them though.

As mentioned above, unless the fan switch/sensor is broken then it might just be that the radiator earth has fallen or rusted off.

It is worth checking the valve clearances for peace of mind - you only have to do it every 24k (I think - might be 16k), either way you probably won't be doing it again for while.

mcalvert39 wrote:
1. scott oil system innop

1. whats the best engine oil to use and how much do I need for an oil change.

Hi there and a warm welcome

Apart from me being nearly 20 years older than you, I'm in a similar situation. My first big bike too, same model (apart from the fairing bit) year, colour, topbox, can, indicators. Even the mileage is similar.

My bike also came with an inoperative oiler, which I tossed ASAP and replaced with a Loobman (after a short venture into the world of spraycan-sticky-stuff). Much simpler, much more control.

The oil debate, yes. Much has been said about oil, and here's my bit: Your bike features a wet clutch, meaning whatever oil you put into the engine will end up in the clutch too. There are two types of oil - car and motorcycle - differing only on one point.
Car oil *may* contain so-called friction modifiers which are said to be bad for wet clutches, making them slip.
Motorcycle oil does not contain friction modifiers.

I've found that getting hold of reasonably priced motorcycle oil is harder than just buying car oil. But it IS doable - even at a similar price point.

Honda has nothing to say on the subject.

Lots of people are using car oil and have no problems doing so.

To me, 'friction modifiers' sound expensive, meaning that I'd go for a cheap car oil in an attempt to steer clear of the slippery stuff.
Or you could simply buy motorcycle oil. Motorcycle oil is JASO-approved, allowing you to positively identify it as such.

Badseeds' advice on disregarding Honda's 8k interval gets a nod from me. Oil is cheap, repairs are expensive. Besides, the gearbox dislikes old oil - just my experience.

Few lil updates.
Given a really good deep clean,
fitted two new foot pegs (ebay items)
Repaired standard exhaust and sprayed in high temp silver.