[solved]My first project bike!

Hi,

As some may know i've been looking around for a shoe string budget '500 after being converted by my good friend John aka sullivj so after sifting through all the bikes he sent (while due to projects around the house my budget seemed to decrease) I thought all hope was lost but I was presented the opportunity thanks to ashcroc to give his bike a new lease of life after a run in with a car left it a economic write off and at a price I could afford so seemed silly not to jump at the chance.

So here we are..... and like many I love a good photo





So, first order of business was to strip off any broken non-essential items including the Givi rack as its just not for me.....





Then a quick wash later and I have my starting point





Pressing concerns are the bent forks but thanks to a Gumtree find by ashcroc I'm picking up a pair tomorrow which although less than ideal will get the bike moving again - just hoping that the yokes are all good! I've also been offered a replacement handlebars by sullivj which should hopefully see the bike as technically ridable but with a fair way to go.

I've got a long list of wanted items so expect to see that going up shortly and of course more pics to come 

So glad it's gone to a good home instead of getting broken up.

I noticed you've left the damaged engine bar on & taken the good one off

Good eye, plan is to remove both but means taking that engine mount bolt out I laced it with WD40 and had a go and saw a small amount of movement on the head - but none on the bar and quickly decided that I don't think I'm quite up for that challenge (should it go wrong) on my first day.

Still need to think about that rad fan not coming on issue too, you mentioned checking the earth(?) ...is that the one coming off the thermostat on the left hand side of the rad?

Also would like to find out whats going on with the ignition barrel as you move it to on and nothing happens then really twist to the extent before the instruments light up.

Removed the baffle too - sounds like a helicopter taking off!

The supplied battery is all charged now and working as it should also, will have to see what progress next week brings!

The earth cable attached to one of the fan shroud bolts is the usual culprit. Chapter 3.3/4 in the haynes goes through the fault finding.

As for the ignition, I think the mecanism is a bit gunked up from the lack of use the bike had with the previous owner as it has been getting better & after a while I stopped noticing it. 
I was gonna have a bit of an investigation at the service as the headstock was coming off to grease the bearings anyhow. Unfortunately the stack happened first.


The fuel cap lock is also quite stiff. 

thanks, I'm sure it will get seen to in all good time.

So minor update, the '96 forks from Gumtree bar leaking seals look pretty good - thinking about using the stanchions to rebuild the bent ones on this 2002 bike.

Took a look at Lings but although the two diagrams look exactly the same the part number for the stanchion are different. Anyone know if its possible? .....or should I just service the ones from the '96 bike and use them complete?

http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_motorcycle_parts_selection_pfk.php?block_01=13MY5WEA&block_02=F__0800&block_03=1599

http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_motorcycle_parts_selection_pfk.php?block_01=13MY52I1&block_02=F__0800&block_03=1660

Also picked up a set of handle bars generously donated by sullivj, ordered up a Optimate connection for ease if the battery dies again, one of the Chinese dial surrounds and a oem set of rider pegs from Tricky.

To add I'm also giving very serious consideration to stripping down to the frame for a blast and a powder coating to deal with the rust issue - madness or has anyone else done it?

Dan

Hmm. I wasn't aware they changed the stanchions between the years. The only difference between the lowers is the oil drain bolt (If you look at the newer ones you should be able to see the scar from the blanking plug they put into the mold) so I don't see why it wouldn't fit fine. It might be something as simple as showa getting the stanchions from a different manufacturer. 
If you do decide to get the frame blasted & powder coated, it'll be easy to get them to do the 96 lowers at the same time & then you'll have easier oil draining in the future.

I successfully built a set of working forks from a pile of 500T, 500W and 500-2 parts. You'll be fine.

Very nice looking bike, by the way. The gold wheels look really good against the black paint. Just needs some CBR125 indicators...........

It'll be back on the road - just give me time

Would you advise pre-empting doing the bushes aswell while they are apart? also would you advise using the 2006 or 2002 lowers?

I fitted new bushes, simply because I knew I'd be keeping this bike forever and while it was all apart.... That said, I couldn't find any discernible wear on any of the used ones, including the 95k mile forks.

I used the '96 lowers, simply because they were in the best condition. I'm not worried about having drain holes. Having changed fork oil many times over the years and seen what kinda state it can get into, you really need 'em off to give 'em a proper clean inside.

Whats the problem with having drain holes? just potential sealant issues?

No, not at all. Old fork oil goes very, very manky and smells like fish. It can also go kinda gloopy with all the detritus in the bottom, meaning it becomes more viscous from when it entered the fork leg, so it aint gonna drain as effectively as you'd hope. Trust me, even your '02 fork bottoms are gonna hum inside!

I tend to replace the bushes as standard especially the first time as I've no idea how many miles the present ones have done. I use the 'slide hammer' technique for splitting the forks which could potentially damage the bushes & they're so cheap it seems foolish not to at least have a set on standby just in case.

ashcroc wrote:I tend to replace the bushes as standard especially the first time as I've no idea how many miles the present ones have done. I use the 'slide hammer' technique for splitting the forks which could potentially damage the bushes & they're so cheap it seems foolish not to at least have a set on standby just in case.

Absolutely, I agree on all counts.

cheap? where are you getting them? Lings parts are listing them at £10ea.

Also whats the method for fitting the new lower, it seems a common thing across different bikes that Haynes advise the flat screwdriver to remove but nothing about the refit..... from what I've seen other people say its just slide on and press shut with your fingers?

Anything else I should be replacing? bar the top cap O ring, the seal, dust cover, damper bolt O ring - and now the bushes

I got my bushes from DSS, not cheap, but I know I'm keeping this bike, so.....

Be careful with the damper-rod bolts' copper washer; I failed to notice that one side hadn't come out with the bolt and put a new 'un straight on top of it. Fork oil then dribbled onto the disc whilst the bike was parked on its side-stand at the MOT station...... Went back three hours later and got a pass.

Lower bush; you've got the idea. You need to replace the fork oil! Ha ha!

Excellent, good call on the oil

Can't remember if i got the bushes from lings or wemoto.
Cheap is admittedly comparing the relatively low price with either the accelerated failing of the new oil seals from worn bushes or getting the fork apart only to find that you need them.

Right so one week in on my ("long term") project and so far have on order or in some cases already delivered......

* Rider Pegs (thanks Tricky)
* Rad (thanks badseeds)
* Brake Lever (thanks sluggish)
* Left Hanger (.... sluggish again )
* Grab Handle (thanks sullivj)
* Handle Bars (.... sullivj again aswell as a few other bits)
* Full Set of CBR125 Indicators
* Universal Wing Mirrors
* Front Fender
* Meter Ring Plastics
* GS Fairing from Skidmarx


I've also had the front engine bolt out and am currently applying PlusGas on the rear one aswell as the header and frame bolts to ease removal soon.

So, as you can see its a long term project and I'll be taking things slowly.

jerryfudd wrote:So, as you can see its a long term project and I'll be taking things slowly.

You're not being slow. You're being thorough...

On the subject of forks: I did mine last spring. Bike's a 2001-model and I'm tellin' ya: Inside was a black and 'silvery' oil, definitely not in good condition. The bushes were all worn  - they come as new with some PTFE-slipslide-coating and it was this coating that had gone into the oil, causing it to glimmer. Seals were gone too.
Complete procedure on both forks took me half a day, leaving time to sit on a kitchen chair in the driveway while enjoying the sun, drinking a beer and admiring the fine engineering that goes into a set of forks.

Toss the lot, reassemble using new parts and you won't believe what a difference! It'll even get better as the parts wear in

Sorry subtle sarcasm there in that over 7 days I've manage to amass over double the amount of parts it would take me to get it back on the road

jerryfudd wrote:Sorry subtle sarcasm there in that over 7 days I've manage to amass over double the amount of parts it would take me to get it back on the road :lol:

This is bad thing? ;)

For my bank balance yes, also the crushing defeat my will power suffered

So this week I've been yet again ordering more parts, I've also had the remaining two engine bolts out which have been heavily greased and refitted, as have the exhaust downpipe nuts aswell the 4 frame drop out bolts which were a bit of a state so dropped the new ones straight in.... hopefully all making for a smooth engine removal in a week or two.

One or two things have come off the bike since my last post, managed to get all the fuel out the tank and thats airing now from what I've read to prevent rust forming it either needs to be very full of fuel or very empty and able to breath so that no condensation forms inside.